🧿 BODRUM
If you only read one thing for your first trip to Bodrum, this will have you covered.
I spent the last week and a half in Bodrum. I knew close to nothing about the place before I visited, though, a few friends who have been repeatedly mentioned the bright blue waters.
I’ve been to Greece, Spain, the South of France, and coastal Italy. I’ve seen the bright blue Mediterranean. But those friends were right. Bodrum’s sea is the brightest, clearest, cleanest, blue I’ve seen in my life.
The crowd is global, around 30% American. At least that’s what a local hotelier told us, though I saw close to no Americans. Mostly Turks from Istanbul, stylish Russians, and Europeans. The people are cool. The type of crowd that’s been to the other high-end destinations in the Mediterranean and found their hidden gem in Bodrum.
I saw no influencers. Or outfits curated to fit a trend. Instead, vacation-chic clothing, individual taste and a point of view (how refreshing). And, of course, the signs of a luxury summer destination in Europe: Hermes slip-ons, Goyard beach bags, hundred thousand dollar Patek Phillipe’s on 18 year old boys. Romeo y Julieta cigars. Vogue cigarettes.
In late June, the water temperature is heavenly - the type that feels freezing when you dunk your head under and like a warm hug as soon as you come up for air. The produce is fresh. The cuisine is farm to table in every sense of the term - colorful plates of green salads, local cheese, pillowy-soft white fish, and beans soaked in olive oil from the region.
Most of all, the people here know how to enjoy life. This is the trip for you to do the same. Enjoy the slow pace. Admire your surroundings. Appreciate the Turkish way of hospitality. I can’t wait to return to Bodrum soon.
Table of Contents:
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
If it’s your first time in Turkey, you’ll probably want to pair 4–5 days in Bodrum with another region. On my first trip, I spent three days in Istanbul followed by about a week in Bodrum. I considered adding a stop in Cappadocia, known for its hot air balloons and underground cities, but ultimately decided against it. I prefer really getting to know one place over the constant packing and unpacking that comes with visiting several destinations in a limited time. I wanted to fully savor the Bodrum sun. I made the right call.
Getting around: it’s fairly easy to get a yellow taxi just about anywhere you are. Water taxi’s are the most convenient if you’re going from bay to bay, though they are more expensive.
My biggest misconception about Bodrum was its size. I imagined it to be a small village (similar to St. Tropez in the South of France). Actually, it’s a large peninsula with distinct pockets of character. I imagine many visitors stay at or near their hotel the entire time. But if you don’t mind driving 30–40 minutes to dinner, there are incredible local restaurants, shops, and villages to explore.
If you book dinner at 7 PM you’ll be the first and only one in the restaurant. For restaurants with a sunset view, book around 8. Otherwise, make your reservations closer to 9 PM to take advantage of a full day in the sun.
WHERE TO EAT
As far as dinner is concerned, you can do Bodrum in a few different ways. If you’re the type to dine at Nobu wherever there is one, you’ll find no shortage of globally recognized, upscale restaurants to choose from: Hakkasan, Zuma, Gigi, ROKA. I usually steer clear of the big names, but I like to balance local meals with high-end ‘foodie’ ones. Below are a few of my favorites:
Dereköy Lokantasi - Modern Turkish cuisine in a quiet inland village that feels like you’re eating in your chic friend’s backyard. Go early and grab sunset drinks at Limon Gümüşlük (a 10 minute ride) for one of the best views on the peninsula.
Limon Gümüşlük Bağarası, Bitez - If you’re staying at one of the luxury hotels, driving to Bitez will feel like traveling to another world. It’s about 40 minutes on the other side of the peninsula and the road is mostly dirt for the last 15 minutes of it. But, at last you’ll arrive at Bağarası, a charming garden restaurant with the kind of warm, genuine service where your server remembers the intimate family anecdote you told three years earlier. Some say they serve the best food in the area. It’s hard to argue once you’ve had their signature artichoke dessert (pictured below). It sounds weird but it’s one of the best things I’ve ever eaten…
Bağarası ŞişkoPerihan Yalıkavak - The setting makes this place worth it. It must be the most breathtaking sunset view in all of Bodrum. The food here was my least favorite on my recent trip (but that’s just because the bar is so high in Turkey since all the food is unbelievably delicious!!!!) The music picks up later in the evening. It’s a great spot for groups looking for a livelier vibe.
Scorpios - Scorpios brings its signature bohemian luxury and house music roster from Mykonos to Bodrum. Check out the program ahead of time to see who’s playing and email them to secure tickets. I’d skip dinner and just party there with a crew. The food is great, but not worth the absurd prices and sub-par service.
Atilay, Türkbükü - One of my favorite meals in Bodrum. A fish restaurant right on the water in the coastal village of Türkbükü. It’s super local. Mostly big Turkish families, groups of longtime friends, and couples with their dog at the table. Have a walk along the port and drop into the shops along the way. It’s really lovely.
Atilay Maçakızı Restaurant - White tablecloths, one-bite starters, lantern lighting, and the energy of something altogether very glamorous. This restaurant has one Michelin star and you can tell. The food is exceptional and the service is unmatched.
DURING THE DAY
Rent a boat - Many visit the area by sea. If that’s not your plan, I highly recommend renting a boat for a day. There’s plenty to admire on land, but the secret coves only accessible by water somehow sparkle even brighter.
Paper Moon at Bodrum Loft - A proper Italian lunch to break up the string of Turkish meals. The beach is technically reserved for hotel guests, but in the low season they may let you stay. I suggest making a lunch reservation around 1 or 2 PM and arriving early to enjoy the water. Their gluten-free pasta is excellent, and I’ll never forget the look on my boyfriend’s face when they brought out a bowl of house-made chili oil.
Paper Moon at Bodrum Loft Maçakızı - Lots of people come just to spend the day here (most of whom arrive by boat). You’ll want to reserve lounge chairs ahead of time. The Maçakızı lunch buffet is my dream meal. A family-style spread of the freshest, most flavorful Mediterranean ingredients that feels like it was prepared by your own private chef. Each afternoon at 1:30 PM, the hotel plays a deep drumming rhythm (affectionately known as the “lunch song”) to signal that lunch is about to begin. When the song ends, a bell rings from the kitchen and the buffet opens. The menu changes daily - from gyro to Turkish dumplings, to an assortment of skewers. And whatever you do, don’t miss the cheesecake for dessert.
Lucca Beach & Restaurant (at the Mandarin Oriental) - A sceney, high-energy beach club right on the water. Their summer 2025 lineup includes Kaz James, PAWSA, and Francis Mercier (😍😍😍) .
