🕌 ISTANBUL

If you only read one thing for your first trip to Istanbul, this will have you covered.

Istanbul is far bigger, and far more layered, than I expected. Split between Europe and Asia, divided by the Bosphorus, each neighborhood has a rhythm of its own. It is one of those cities you think about when you leave because you know there is so much more to see and do.

Like Tokyo, like Berlin, it disorients you just enough to make you pay attention. I think it’s the intriguing mix of culture shock and unexpected pockets of familiarity. For me, that familiarity lived in the fashion — which feels oddly aligned with my own taste — the cinematic architecture, a cool electronic music scene I didn’t know existed, and the food: tangy yogurt, lamb kebap, and eggplant dips that echo the meals of my Russian-immigrant childhood.

The people are warm and hospitable. And the city is full of surprises, including a fleet of fishermen that crowd the Galata Bridge morning to night.

If you just want to visit Istanbul once in your life, three days is enough to give you a taste. But if you’re a history nerd or above-average curious person, spend ten days here and you’ll be looking forward to returning soon.

---

Table of Contents:

1. My Top Recommendations

2. Where to Eat

3. Neighborhood Breakdown

---

MY TOP RECOMMENDATIONS

1. Book a traditional hammam experience at Kilic Ali Pasa Hamami. Allow yourself to be surprised. The less you know, the better.

2. Spend a day walking through the Grand Bazaar and Eminonu Spice Market. Have lunch at Pandeli Restaurant, located inside the Spice Market.

3. Book a half-day tour in advance of Sultanahmet District, the historical core of the city, where you’ll see the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, and Topkapi Palace.

4. Walk along the Bosphorus from Bebek to Emirgan (about 1 hr). Start with breakfast and a Turkish coffee at Mangerie. Walk along the water towards Emirgan Parkı and Sakıp Sabancı Museum.

5. Visit Galata Tower and walk Serdar-I Ekrem Street in the afternoon. From there, walk over to the Galataport, explore the shops along the water, and visit the Istanbul Modern museum at the end of the port.

6. Spend an afternoon walking down Istiklal Caddesi and visit the bars and cafes around Asmali Mescit.

---

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

Paneli Restaurant

LUNCH

• ⭐ Pandeli Restaurant - Once of Istanbul’s oldest restaurants and quite the institution! When you walk into the spice market, it’s located up a few flights of stairs at the left of the entrance.

• Karaköy Lokantası - a classic favorite for mezzes, though my local friend called in touristy.

• Mangerie - If you’re in Bebek, I love this spot for a Turkish breakfast or lunch. It’s a casual, modern café filled with local regulars who have come post-workout. You would never stumble upon it unless you knew of it before as it’s a bit hard to find from the street. Take the stairs up right past Nusr-Et Steakhouse!

---

KEBAP

• Adana Ocakbasi

• Şehzade Cağ Kebap

---

DINNER

Asmali Cavit

• ⭐ Asmali Cavit - This tavern has the energy of my favorite bistros in Paris. Most tables are big groups toasting rakı all night. My number one dinner recommendation in Istanbul! Must make a reservation in advance.

• Gallada - Turk-Asian fine dining at The Peninsula by Chef Fatih Tutak. A beautiful, romantic night with spectacular views if you want something different and less traditional.

• Arkestra - Must make a reservation in advance! A trendy fine-dining restaurant.

---

DRINKS

• ⭐ Bebek Hotel - Have a drink on the outdoor terrace overlooking the water or go upstairs to the rooftop bar for a proper outdoor club scene. Make a reservation for the bar in advance.

• Arkestra - Visit the listening room at this fine-dining restaurant for drinks after dinner, but make a reservation in advance.

• Tavern - A trendy hang-out spot on Friday and Saturday nights! Walk-ins only.

• Soho House Istanbul - If you’re staying at the hotel or a Soho House member, it’s worth checking out the rooftop bar here for a pre-dinner drink. The sunset view is spectacular!

---

NEIGHBORHOOD BREAKDOWN

SULTANAHMET AND TOPKAPI

This is the historic heart of Istanbul. It’s touristy and crowded, as expected, but it’s absolutely worth it.

• Topkapı Palace

• Istanbul Archaeology Museum

• The Blue Mosque

• Hagia Sophia

• Basicila Cistern

• The Grand Bazaar - As with any bazaar, there’s a lot of noise and a few hidden gems. I’ve bookmarked high quality rug studios, textile shops and ceramic sellers on my google map, included at the bottom of this guide.

---

ŞIŞHANE AND BEYOĞLU

The energy is somewhere between New York City’s East Village and Williamsburg, with the charm of Soho pre-commercialization.

• Walk down İstiklal Caddesi and visit the bars and cafes around Asmalı Mescit.

• Pera Museum - 19th-century Orientalist paintings to contemporary art exhibitions.

---

KARAKOY

• Istanbul Modern

• Salt Galata - A former bank turned cultural institution with art exhibitions, a research library, and a café. For the architecture enthusiasts.

• Walk around Kara Ali Kaptan Street and explore local boutiques, galleries and cafes.

---

GALATA

The part of Galata closer to the bridge feels largely hectic and the streets are a bit difficult to navigate. You’ll walk across the bridge to get to the Grand Bazaar and historic district.

• Galata Tower - Go at golden hour for the full effect.

• Serdar-I Ekrem Street - A charming street near Beyoğlu which has a lot of boutiques, concept stores, and fun cafés.

---

CIHANGIR & ÇUKURCUMA

This neighborhood is famous for its antique stores and traditional goods. I have a few pinned on my Google Map, included at the bottom of this guide. Wander the streets and get a little lost.

---

ORTAKÖY – ARNAVUTKÖY – BEBEK

This stretch along the European side of the Bosphorus is perfect for a scenic afternoon. Start in Ortaköy and make your way north. There are many shops to walk into along the way.

• Simple Life Bebek - Laid-back concept store for elevated basics and lifestyle goods.

• Midnight - Curated mix of Turkish and international designers.

---

MODA AND KADIKÖY (ACROSS THE BOSPHORUS, ASIA)

Hop on a ferry to the Asian side for a more laid-back, creative vibe. Moda and Kadıköy are full of record stores, bookstores, vintage shops, and lively cafés.

• Soy Turkiye - Turkish-made ceramics, textiles, and homewares.

• Mod Vintage - Denim, silk blouses, and retro accessories.

---

GOOGLE MAP

*This map has all the locations mentioned above, and more, pinned so you can easily see where everything is located and plan your days around different neighborhoods.