🥖 PARIS

If you only read one thing for your next trip to Paris, this will have you covered.

I lived in Paris for a few months, and ever since, I’ve treated it like an expensive habit I refuse to quit. Every year I find myself booking a flight under the vague pretense of inspiration. It’s usually around spring, my favorite time in Paris, when my American serotonin dries up and I want to be in a place where people walk to pick up a croissant, not to hit their step-count.

Paris, like New York, is a city that’s always doing something. But unlike New York, it hasn’t been razed by finance bros and oat milk chains. There’s a commitment to intention here. I leave feeling restored - with my taste, time, and attention.

This guide is what I think of as the first layer. The classics. The institutions. The places that are so obvious. But make no mistake, if it’s on here, it’s because I like it.

My absolute favorites are starred (⭐), because I am OCD and I enjoy a ranking system.

If you already know your way around Paris, or have been more than a few times, my second layer guides go deeper: the seasonal spots, the locals’ favorites, the places I return to time and time again, and the ones that feel like secrets even when they’re not.

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🧥 PARIS: In the Winter

🥐 PARIS: In the Summer

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Table of Contents:

1. Where to Eat

   1. Dinner

   2. Bakeries & Breakfast

   3. Lunch

   4. Wine Bars

   5. Coffee Shops

   6. Bars & Clubs

2. Museums

3. Where to Shop

4. Neighborhoods

5. Pinned Google Map

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WHERE TO EAT

⭐ MY FAVORITES

1. Chez L’Ami Louis - ($$$) One of my favorite restaurants of all time and the answer to all of your escargot and foie gras desires. It’s been referred to as ‘the most famous bistro in the world’ and has hosted many celebrities throughout the years. Getting a reservation is not easy. I recommend having your hotel concierge call.

2. Chez Georges - ($$$) An old-school establishment where reservations are recorded by pen and paper.

3. Jaïs - ($$) A classic French bistro in the 7th with young, lively energy. The tables are on top of each other and the vibe is hectic in the best way. Perfect for a date night or dinner with your best friend.

4. Clamato - ($$) Highly recommend coming here in the summer! It’s walk-in only, and serves some of the most refreshing and innovative seafood dishes I’ve had.

5. Hotel Costes - ($$$) You know it …. Come after dinner for a spicy cocktail, skinny cigarettes, and the best people watching in the courtyard.

Cache (L) Chez Georges (R)

FOR CLASSIC FRENCH FOOD

1. ⭐ Chez L’Ami Louis - ($$$) One of my favorite restaurants of all time and the answer to all of your escargot and foie gras desires. It’s been referred to as ‘the most famous bistro in the world’ and has hosted many celebrities throughout the years. I recommend having your hotel concierge call for the reservation

   1. [Reservation by phone: +33 1 48 87 77 48]. If you speak french, you can try calling yourself. If you don’t (or really even if you do), have a hotel concierge make the reservation for you.

2. ⭐ Bistrot Paul Bert - ($) A casual bistro that’s mostly tourists for sure, but the steak frites are the best in town [Walk-in or reservation by phone].

3. ⭐ Chez Georges - ($$$) A well known old-school establishment where the reservations are recorded in a giant book. [Reservation by phone: +33 1 42 60 07 11]

4. Chez Janou - ($$) You’ve probably seen pictures of the chocolate mousse dessert. It’s not overrated! [Walk-ins only]

5. Allard - ($$$) It caters to an older crowd. Sometimes a bit stuffy, but the food is really great and classically french. It’s a good place to go with your family.

6. Le Petit Lutetia - ($$) A restaurant you’ll never get tired of returning to. Great for for dinner or lunch, with parents or friends. [Reservation by phone: +33 1 45 48 33 53]

7. Le Voltaire ($$) - You can’t go wrong with this classic french bistro. It’s a vibe with parents, friends, or for a date.

FOR A LAID-BACK DINNER AND A GREAT VIBE

1. ⭐ Clamato - walk-in only, seafood, one of my favorites in Paris!

   1. Sister to Septime (the food is just as good in a more chill way); Put your name down 15 min before it opens and grab wine at Septime La Cave across the st.

2. Le Clown Bar - ($$) modern bistro with creative french dishes

3. Cache - industrial setting, young crowd, good vibe before going out

4. Bambino - tapas style dishes, turns into a chill dancing vibe around 12pm (open until 2am); DJ spinning vinyl, great vibes

FOR THE VIBES

1. Sugaar - ($$) Sceney, hip spot where the food is also good. Not for those craving a ‘classic french’ experience, but come for a really good vibe and a cool crowd.

2. Hotel Costes - ($$$) You know. Come for a drink & a cigarette or dessert. Spend a long time people watching in the courtyard.

   1. [Reservations can only be made by phone 24 hours in advance. For a drink, I usually just walk-in]

SHE’S FANCY

1. L’Avenue - ($$$) famous (overrated imo); if you’re going, go for lunch

2. Caviar Kaspia - ($$$) caviar baked potato just to feel something

3. Girafe - ($$$) The roof has a beautiful view of the Eiffel tower. Romantic!

A FEW MORE PLACES

1. ⭐ Septime - ($$$) Incredible food for the ultimate foodie [It’s hard to get a reservation, but you can often get lucky off the waitlist]

2. ⭐ Lou Lou - ($$$) Touristy, but beautiful to sit on the patio in the summer + enjoy delicious pasta (+ GF available)

3. Le Relais de l'Entrecôte - ($) a famous chain; long waits, but great steak frites

4. Ferdi - ($$) famous burger, but a bit cheesy

5. Chez L’Ami Jean ($$) - cozy spot with a pretty unique menu, get the rice pudding!

Clown Bar, Septime

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BAKERIES & BREAKFAST

1. ⭐ Dreamin’ Man - the best coffee and pastries and a particularly amazing vibe in the summer; great for people watching

2. Paperboy - chill breakfast

3. Cafe Berry - easy breakfast in the 3rd

4. Mokonuts - book in advance (lunch from noon - 2:30pm)

LUNCH

1. Cafe de Flore - if it’s your first time in Paris

2. L'as du Fallafel or Miznon - grab & go, jewish quarters

3. Cafe Charlot - casual, my favorite outdoor seating but the food is just fine (come for 5 pm aperol spritz), summer

4. Onii San - Japanese, wagyu sandwich *save for your 2nd/3rd trip to Paris

WINE BARS

Save these for a 2nd/3rd trip to Paris. Most are particularly great in the summer.

1. ⭐ Clown Bar - cozy, classic

2. Folderol - ice cream shop and wine bar, summer

3. Cache - industrial setting

4. Amagat (sister to Cache) - spanish tapas, summer

5. Bambino - tapas, turns into a chill dancing vibe around 12pm (open until 2am); DJ spinning vinyl, great vibes

6. Deviant - (say hi to Nico), summer

7. Early June Wine Bar - all about the food

Amagat patio, Cafe Charlot

COFFEE

1. ⭐ Dreamin’ Man - the best, sit outside + people watch

2. I/O Cafe

3. Telescope - banana bread

BARS

1. ⭐ Bar Hemingway at the Ritz - a classic and iconic bar with an elegant vibe. A good spot to come with family or a significant other for a pre-dinner cocktail

2. Bambino - a wine bar that turns into a fun dancing vibe around 12pm (it’s open until 2am). There’s a DJ spinning vinyl and the energy is high - spend the night!

CLUBS

1. Silencio - !!!! Definitely my favorite club in Paris

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MUSEUMS

1. ⭐ Picasso Museum - my favorite museum to consistently visit in Paris. Check in advance for exhibitions.

2. ⭐ Musée de l'Orangerie - Get lost in Monet’s water lilies.

3. ⭐ Bourse de Commerce - Pinault Collection

4. Palais Tokyo - modern/contemporary art

5. Musee YSL - all things Yves Saint Laurent

6. Fondation LV - check in advance for exhibitions

7. Le Centre Pompidou - modern art museum

   1. Atelier Brancusi - across the street from Centre Pompidou, worth a visit.

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WHERE TO SHOP

1. You’ll find all of my shopping recommendations — vintage, luxury, books, etc. in this map: Paris Shopping · Uma

2. The 3rd is my favorite neighborhood to walk around in. Walk up and down the streets and browse all of the little boutiques. It’s a mix of little boutiques, concept stores & cafes - a ‘downtown’ vibe. Here are a few of my favorite places in the 3rd:

   1. Broken Arm - a must-visit every time I’m in Paris. Multi-brand concept store with a unique curation (brands including Prada, Alaia, & Wales Bonner)

   2. Thomas Greyhound - luxury multi-brand concept store (brands including Courreges, Loewe, and some unique french labels)

   3. Merci - cute cafe inside, a very ‘Paris’ stop (Unique homeware & brands including Isabel Marant, Forte Forte)

   4. The Parisian Vintage - I’ve gotten some great vintage pieces here! Paco, Saint Laurent, etc.

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BY NEIGHBORHOOD

1. The 3rd

   1. My favorite area. Nice to walk towards the 11th too.

   2. Go for dinner or walk around during the day

   3. Coffee shops, vintage shopping, galleries, cool restaurants & bars

   4. Merci

2. Montmartre

   1. Walk to the top to see a view of the city during the day

   2. Pigalle Basketball Court & Soho House Paris are right near there Cabaret shows (Moulin Rouge)

3. Le Marais

   1. Lots of little shops to walk around during the day

   2. The Jewish Quarter

   3. Le Centre Pompidou (modern art museum)

4. 6 arr

   1. Cafe de Flore

   2. Walk by Le Bon Marche

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GOOGLE MAP

PARIS SHOPPING

**My recommendation is to follow both Google Maps lists. When you're walking around Paris and looking for a place to shop or a bar near your dinner, open either map, and use it to find a good spot.

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FROM PARIS TO…

👙 SOUTH OF FRANCE

🦪 SAINT-TROPEZ

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